Installation Guidelines

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The First Step Ground Preparation Preparing the ground for paving depends upon site conditions and the intended use of the paved area. If your ground is firm, you probably only need to remove the turf and topsoil to a depth to allow 100mm of hardcore and 60mm for the slab and mortar thicknesses. If the ground is very soft or if the paved area is going to have heavy traffic on it, you would need to allow for a depth of 200mm of hardcore and 60mm for the slab and mortar thicknesses.
If the paved area is going to be driven on, a poured concrete slab underneath the mortar bed is recommended but an engineer might need to be consulted at this stage. In reality, few areas are already level enough for immediate paving, so some areas need to be excavated whilst others need to be made up with compacted hardcore.
 
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We would recommend that you use a 25-35mm wet mortar bed on 100mm of well compacted hardcore for most paving situations.

There seems to be some confusion about the way you lay natural stone! The larger surface area is the side of the slab you see when it is laid which means that the joints between the slabs are smaller at the top then they are at the bottom, which also helps the pointing to get a better hold.

We recommend that whenever laying natural stone you should mix your paving from 3-4 different packs (if laying a large area) as this will allow the colours to blend and help to improve any shade variations that may occur between packs, giving your patio a more natural look.

We recommend using a wet or slightly wet mortar mix of 1 part cement to 5 parts building sand. Start from a corner or use a string to give yourself a straight line. Trowel five large dabs of mortar at each corner and in the middle of each slab giving yourself a fairly full bed of mortar.

Due to the variations in thickness we recommend you start with a thick slab and tap it down into the mortar until you find the correct level (use a rubber mallet to tap the slab down as it will avoid cracking it). Once you lay the first slab, lay the five spots of mortar for the next slab. You could also lay a strip of mortar where the next joint will be, this will minimise pointing afterwards. Ensure that you check all of the levels and falls during the laying process, you should do this by using a spirit level. This will help you to create a patio with a slight fall on it to ensure it drains properly.

 
 
If your patio involves a lot of cutting we would advise that you hire a powered cutting tool with a diamond tipped blade. Some stones are harder to cut then others and will require more work.
 
 
There are several methods and products in the market to help with the pointing of paving products. Air reacting jointing products (i.e. Geofix and Rompox) which we sell and the old fashioned cement and mortar mix.
We recommend that paving is laid allowing for a minimum 10-15mm joint. If you are using a jointing product please follow the instructions on the cover of the product, as failing to do so could lead to a complete renewal of products.When using a cement mortar mix we recommend using a wet mix (but not sloppy) to produce a more permanent waterproof finish. Make sure you clean the excess cement mortar mix from the paving using a sponge when the mortar is still wet, or a wire brush and some acid cleaner when the mortar has hardened.
 
 

Should you seal natural stone?

We don’t recommend that you have to seal natural stone that is being used outside, however it might help to maintain the colour and keep the paving clean. There are several different sealing products on the market, all producing the same end result.

We recommend that your paved area is kept free of leaves and general garden debris as this will keep it clean for longer. For best results clean your paved area with a small pressure washer (available in hardware stores i.e.Woodies) every six to twelve months, alternatively there are patio cleaning products available which may be easier to use but not quite as effective.